Wednesday, August 20, 2008

Final Day - Mary King's Close

Mary King's Close, which has remained unchanged for over 400 years is hidden beneath the Royal Mile lies Edinburgh’s deepest secret: a warren of hidden ‘closes’ where real people lived, worked and died -- some from the plague. For centuries they have lain forgotten and abandoned, but now come alive through this tour.

We experienced the sights, sounds and 'yes' smells of an amazing street that time forgot. Where everyday people went about their day to day lives and where we walked in their footsteps. We learned about the "Plague Doctors" and where the term "Quack" came from.

We saw how they lived and how they survived. Now we have a true appreciation of our wonderful way of life -- and will not take for granted the blessing we have been given.

Day 7 - Robertson Heritage Tour

We hired a private tour guide, Ian Stewart of Serenity Scotland Tours, to take us on a voyage to the past of the Robertson clan (Donnachaidh). The tour began with tradition of Scotland -- RAIN! Our very first real RAIN DAY!

We left at 8:30 AM and took the road from Edinburgh over the Firth of Forth through Perth to the Scottish Highlands. Ian told us of the history of Scotland, from the Romans, to the Picts, to James I -- son of Mary Queen of Scots, who united Scotland and England. He spoke of the divisiness of religion -- protestants and catholics -- which is still present in their culture.

A wee bit on the Robertsons --

"The Robertsons are claimed to be descendents from the Celtic Earls of Athol. The Clan takes its Gaelic name from Donnachadh Reamhar (Stout Duncan) the staunch friend of Bruce, who led the clan at Bannockburn. It was from Robert Raich (Grizzled Robert) that the clan took the name of Robertson. This Robert was the chief who captured the murderers of James I and delivered them to the government, and for his action he received, in 1451, a crown charter erecting his lands into the barony of Struan. About a centaury later the Earl of Athol seized about half of the Struan lads under a wanset and the Robertsons never recovered them.

The Robertsons were loyal adherents of the Stuarts and accompanied Montrose in all his campaign, and after the restoration Charles II settled a pension robertson of Struan. Alexander, the celebrated poet, chief of Struan, born around 1670, was studying for the church when he succeeded to the chiefship, but he left the cloisters,and joined Dundee in 1688. He was attained but received a remission an 1703. He was 'out' again in 1715, and was captured at Sherrifsmuir, but escaped to France. He was pardoned in 1731, but joined Prince Charles in 1745 with the clan; he was then too old to fight and returned home in Sir John Copes carriage. He in died in 1749.

The Robertsons of Lude are the oldest branch of the clan. Other families are the Robertsons of Inches, of Kindeace, of Auchleeks and of Kinlochmoidart among others. "

We first arrived in Bruar and visited the Robertson Museum, where they told the stories of how the Robertson clan "came down from the Highlands" to support Robert the Bruce.

We visited Struan --Struan is the anglicized form of the Scottish Gaelic word sruthan, meaning a small stream, or the flow at the point where a spring appears.

There are two rural communities in Scotland which are given the name Struan. One is in Perthshire, and the other in Skye. Strowan, also in Perthshire, west of Crieff, has the same origin.

Struan is also a traditional Scottish boys name, commonly given to the chief of the Robertson Clan or Duncan Clan. This comes from the related word sruthan (pl. of sruth 'stream') and can be translated as 'place of streams'.

Struan is the original home of the Robertson castle (no longer present) and a church where many Robertsons were buried -- including several that were Jacobites (Followers of James II, the Catholic king) and had graves marked only with initials.

We then trekked to find the "gathering site" and the "burial site" of the Robertson clan. We located both. The burial site is situated on Loch DunAlister and commands a beatiful view. We continued our journey to Ben Lawers, where we had lunch overlooking Loch Tay -- a beautiful 16 mile lake -- and the sun came out -- so we ate outside. Brilliant!

On the road back, Ian took us by JK Rowling's summer estate and then back to Edinburgh.

A truly "historic day".

Day 6 - A Day at the Castle

We visited Edinburgh Castle today. No rain! Again! We took the audio tour and went on a 1,000 year tour of Scotland's history. From William the Conqueror in 1066 up til the Scottish troops in Basra, Iraq, history has proven that the Scots will "come down from the Highlands" to take up the charge.

We saw the Scottish War Museum, St Margartet's Chapel -- the oldest standing building in Scotland -- and the Scottish Honours -- the Crown jewels -- the crown, the sceptre and the sword.

Afterwards we had lunch at the Witchery -- a delightful restaurant near the castle.

Following lunch, we toured Gladstone's land -- an orginal tenement from the 15th century that had been preserved to show how the Scot's lived. Surprisingly, the flat was pretty large and over the years from 1550 to 1750 - it had been expanded twice with extensions that provided a premium view of the Royal Mile.

We then meandered down the Royal Mile taking in the sights and scenery, until we arrived at the the Fringe Festival's performance center - the Underbelly -- a very large purple upside down cow. We bought tickets for a comedic performance of Tom Allan -- a Londoner who provided us a "voyage with his mother" -- quite entertaining.

Afterwards, we had dinner at Assembly and then headed home.

Monday, August 18, 2008

Day 5 - The Birthplace of Golf

We took a bus tour from Edinburgh, over the "Two Bridges" across the Firth of Forth, through many small seaside towns on Fife, including Celardyke. The weather was delightful, sunny, breezy and 65 degrees.

Fife (Gaelic: Fìobha) is a council area of Scotland, situated between the Firth of Tay and the Firth of Forth, with inland boundaries to Perth and Kinross and Clackmannanshire. It was originally one of the Pictish kingdoms, known as Fib, and is still commonly known as the Kingdom of Fife within Scotland.

Onward to St Andrews. St Andrews (Scottish Gaelic: Cill Rìmhinn) is a town and former royal burgh on the east coast of Fife, Scotland. It is named after Saint Andrew the Apostle. It has a population of about 18,000, and stands on the North Sea coast between Edinburgh and Dundee. It is home to Scotland's oldest university, the University of St Andrews.

The town of St Andrews is known worldwide as the "home of golf". This is in part because the Royal and Ancient Golf Club, founded in 1754, exercises legislative authority over the game worldwide (except in the United States and Mexico), and also because the famous links (acquired by the town in 1894) is the most frequent venue for The Open Championship, the oldest of golf's four major championships. Visitors travel to St Andrews in great numbers for several courses ranked amongst the finest in the world, as well as for the sandy beaches.

Saturday, August 16, 2008

An ancient saying from a wise man

I don't know if its the "Firth of Fourth" or the "Third of Fifth", but I would rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy.

- August 15, 2008 Foolzio

Day 4 Evening - Edinburgh Military Tatoo

You would have thought it was a concert for the Rolling Stones or The Beatles. Over 10,000 people jammed The Royal Mile, only to be "queued" by the Scottish police, in front of the Festival Hub, like a huge python, writhing up to the front of Edinburgh Castle -- and it was 10:00 PM!

It was well worth the wait. Both the performers and the castle were dressed in full regalia. The Scottish Pipes, The Scottish Marine Band, The King of Norway Guard, The Southeast Missouri State University (USA) Marching Band, Dress Field dancers from New Zealand, Honor Guard from India and Singapore -- all presented a convivial, fantastic performance that brought everyone to its feet for many songs including "Auld Ang Syne".

After 2 hours of music, dancing and high-quality performances, the sky and castle lit up with fireworks, accompanied by music. The most spectacular fireworks, in my humble opinion, was a cascading waterfall of fireworks that flowed over the castle gun turrets to the foot of the castle wall.

Eyeweenie did an excellent job!

Day 4 Afternoon - Visit to Roslin (Rosslyn) Chapel

We took bus 15 from Princes Street to Rosslyn Chapel. Here is a bit o' history.

Rosslyn Chapel, properly named the Collegiate Church of St Matthew, was founded on a small hill above Roslin Glen as a Roman Catholic collegiate church (with between 4 and 6 ordained canons and two boy choristers) in the mid-15th century. Rosslyn Chapel and the nearby Rosslyn Castle are located at the village of Roslin, Midlothian, Scotland.

The chapel was founded by William Sinclair, 1st Earl of Caithness (also spelled "Sainteclaire/Saintclair/Sinclair/St. Clair") of the Sinclair family, a noble family descended from Norman knights, using the standard designs the medieval architects made available to him. Rosslyn Chapel is the third Sinclair place of worship at Roslin - the first being in Rosslyn Castle and the second (whose crumbling buttresses can still be seen today) in what is now Roslin Cemetery.

The purpose of the college was to celebrate the Divine Office throughout the day and night and also to celebrate Holy Mass for all the faithful departed, including the deceased members of the Sinclair family. During this period the rich heritage of plainsong (a single melodic line) or polyphony (vocal harmony) would be used to enrich the singing of the liturgy. An endowment was made that would pay for the upkeep of the priests and choristers in perpetuity and they also had parochial responsibilities.

After the Scottish Reformation (1560) Roman Catholic worship in the Chapel was brought to an end, although the Sinclair family continued to be Roman Catholics until the early 18th century. From that time the Chapel was closed to public worship until 1861 when it was opened again as a place of worship according to the rites of the Scottish Episcopal Church.

Crypt

The Chapel has also acted as a burial place for several generations of the Sinclairs — a crypt was once reachable from a descending stair at the rear of the chapel. This crypt has for many years been sealed shut, which may explain the recurrent legends that it is merely a front to a more extensive subterranean vault containing (variously) the mummified head of Jesus Christ,[7] the Holy Grail,[8] the treasure of the Templars,[9] or the original crown jewels of Scotland.[10] In 1837 when the 2nd Earl of Rosslyn died, his wish was to be buried in the original vault, exhaustive searches over the period of a week were made, but no entrance to the original vault was found and he was buried beside his wife in the Lady Chapel.[11]

Alternative histories

Alternative histories involving Rosslyn Chapel and the Sinclairs have recently been published by Andrew Sinclair and Timothy Wallace-Murphy arguing links with the Knights Templar and the supposed descendants of Jesus Christ. The books in particular by Timothy Wallace-Murphy Rex Deus: The True Mystery of Rennes-le-Château And The Dynasty of Jesus (2000) and Custodians Of Truth: The Continuance Of Rex Deus (2005) have focused on the hypothetical Jesus bloodline with the Sinclairs and Rosslyn Chapel. On the ABC documentary Jesus, Mary and Da Vinci aired on 3 November 2003 Niven Sinclair hinted that the descendants of Jesus Christ existed within the Sinclair families. These alternative histories are relatively modern - not dating back before the early 1990s. The precursor to these Rosslyn theories is the 1982 book The Holy Blood and the Holy Grail by Michael Baigent, Richard Leigh and Henry Lincoln that introduced the theory of the Jesus Christ bloodline in relation to the Priory of Sion - the main protagonist of which was Pierre Plantard, who for a time adopted the name Pierre Plantard de Saint-Clair.

Other Myths

According to the guide, these are the things that could be buried below the Chapel's floor.

  • The Head of Jesus Christ
  • A Piece of Jesus Crucifix
  • The Holy Grail
  • 12 Knights of Templar
  • The remains of Mary Magdalene
  • Elvis
You Decide.