Day 4 Morning - Royal Botanic Garden

This morning. we took a stroll down the hill toward StockBridge, across the "stock bridge" to the northern gate of the Royal Botanic Garden -- seventy (70) acres of gardens and hot houses. Once inside we enjoyed a leisurely walk amidst the flora and the fauna, 30 ft hedges, a rock garden, a peat garden and an abundance of flowers. Check out the photos.

Back to 19B, a simple lunch and we are off the Roslyn Chapel -- final scene of the DaVinci Code.

Tonight, the Scottish Military Tatoo.

Tomorrow St Andrews.

Onward the journey continues.....

Day 3 - A Palatial Day

Once again, Edinburgh fooled us -- GREAT WEATHER!

We continued the Open Bus tour (from the prior day) through the rest of the city, by Princes Gardens (which we visited later in the day by walking), and St. Cuthbert's, round the base of the Edinburgh Castle back down the Royal Mile to HolyRood Palace.

We toured HolyRood seeing the "Queen's home" in Scotland, and as castles go, it was interesting, but the best part was the story of Mary, Queen of Scots, and her lifelong trials and tribulations.

As the story goes, "Under the ordinary laws of succession, Mary was next in line to the English throne after her cousin, Queen Elizabeth I, who was childless. In the eyes of many Catholics, Elizabeth was illegitimate, thus making Mary the true heir as Mary II of England. However the Third Succession Act of 1543 provided that Elizabeth would succeed Mary I of England on the throne. Through a series of unfortunate events, Mary, pregnant with child, was being served by David Rizzio, her secretary, at HolyRood, when her husband, Lord Darnley, accused Rizzio of a secret conspiracy. Rizzio was murdered in Mary's chambers at HolyRood by 56 stab wounds and left to die. Subsequently, Mary moved to England where she was imprisoned by her cousin Queen Elizabeth I for 19 years and then tried for treason and put to death at the age of 45." Tough times in the life of a "would be" monarch.

After Holyrood, we visited Scotland's Dynamic Earth exhibit, which covers the evolution of the Earth up to today and where we are headed. They use a clever interactive audience participation activity at the end of the show to allow "us" to determine the ultimate future of the Earth.

We then stopped in to Jenny Ha's and had "pub fare" -- fish & chips, Guiness and tales from the past and future of the monarchy.

We then strolled back up the Mile, visiting the Museum of Edinburgh and Stac Polly -- a restaurant owned by Roger Coulthard, our landlord.

Onward, we pushed our way up the hill, then down the hill and then up 100 stairs to visit Mary Kings Close -- which was "sold out" for the day. We then headed back to New Town, strolling through Princes Garden, seeing an array of flowers, a photo exhibit on "Black Rain".

Back to 19B, we then chatted amongst ourselves and decided "pizza" was in order, so back to Cento Tre -- again excellent Italian fare.

Onward, the journey continues.....

Day 2 - The Royal "10" Miler

Our first full day in Edinburgh was a complete "walk-about" (see "Royal 10 Mile" slide show above) -- We started from 19 Royal Circus and found our way to Princes Street up the Mound -- to the Royal Mile. Once on the Mile, we meandered through the centuries old streets up to "Camera Obscura", which gave us a unique insight into optical illusions and a panoramic "vue" of Edinburgh, through a camera that was built in 1850.

After the Obscura, we briefly visited the Scottish Distilleries tour, to only decide it was too early for a "wee bit", so we headed to lunch at a Cathedral that had been made over into a Festival Cafe. We supped on local Scottish fare - Tweed Kettle, Guinness (an Irish Obsession) and beautiful sunshine. We then decided to go see Tara's dorm at the University, so we hailed a taxi and off we went.

At Pollock Hall at the University of Edinburgh, we met up with Tara and her friends from around the globe (Australia, India, Gettysburg, PA and Ireland). She gave us a tour of the campus, including the "BAR" -- which was very different from what I remembered in College -- of course that was in the "Dark Ages".

After we left Tara, we went back to the "Mile" and flowed through the festival crowds, seeing an array of performers tempting us to come "see" their acts. We visited Giles Cathedral, built over 800 years ago, that was still very much operational.

We then boarded a "open air" double decker bus to see Old Town and New Town. We saw the several restaurants that claimed to be the "place JK Rowling started her writings", the place where Sean Connery worked as a "live model" for aspiring painters then down to HolyRood Palace (the Queen's residence when she visits Scotland), the "Mother Earth" exhibition and finally through the financial district -- Royal Bank of Scoland, Barclays, etc. At 5:00 PM we decided to "take a break" and go back to No 19.

At 9:00 PM we headed out for a "wee bit" of Thailand at the Ruan Siam -- a quaint Thai bistro "round the corner" near No. 19. Food was good. Service was slow.

Onward, the journey continues....

Day 1 Entre: Cento Tre -- absolutely fantastic

Over the pond and through the woods, through Brussels and airport delays, we arrived in Edinburgh under azure blue skies and brilliant sunshine with delightfully warm weather.

Tired, we were gleefully greeted by Roger and Lucinda Coulthard, the owners of 19B Royal Circus -- a wonderful 3 bedroom apartment, near everything and newly re-decorated, including a cat walking across the skylight in the kitchen, overlooking a quaint Scottish garden.

We bedded down for a few hours respite to regain our energy so we could later search for sustenance.

At 7:00 PM Edinburgh time, we strolled through New Town and found an elegant, new age Italian restaurant -- Cento Tre -- located at 103 George Street, that features orginal fresh Italian food combined with high-touch, courteous Scottish service.

When we stopped to check out the fare on the menu, a recent gatronome imbiber told us, " You would be pleased to try it out, the food is good and service exceptional." A few moments later, he retorted, "I should know, I am the owner."

We enjoyed a mixture of bruschetta, prosciutto, melon, cozze, a parma pizza with arugula, accompanied by a nice Barbera d'Asti wine from Lombardia. Topped off by wonderful cappucino, gelato and other fine desserts we began the end to a "well travelled" first day in Scotland. What a delight.

Onward, the journey continues....

See you tomorrow at the festival!

Thin's to do in Edinburgh

A good friend, Mark, the "Man o'Steel", recommended the following things to see while we are in Scotland. Please view these recommendations with careful deference. Remember Mark is a Brit!

THE ROYAL MILE

Edinburgh Castle

• Where: Top of Royal Mile
• When: Daily 09.30 - 18.00 ( summer)
• Price: Adults 8.50gbp; Children ( 5 - 15 ) 2gbp; Seniors 6.5gbp.
• How to get there: Bus 1, 6, 34, 35
  

Camera Obscura/Outlook Tower - We saw this!

• Where: Castlehill
• When: Daily 09.30 - 18.00 (later in summer)
• Price: Adult £6.45 Student/Senior £5.15 Child £4.15
• How to get there: Bus 1, 6, 34, 35
  

Scotch Whisky Heritage Centre - We stopped in!

• Where: Castlehill
• When: Daily 09.30 - 18.00 (later in summer)
• Price: Adults 4.95gbp Children 2.50gbp Seniors 3.50gbp families 12.00gbp
• How to get there: Bus 1, 6, 34, 35
  

The Hub Edinburgh's Festival Centre - We walked by!

• Where: Castlehill
• When: Daily 08.00 - 11.00 (later during festivals)
• Price: Prices for events vary.
• How to get there: Bus 1, 6, 34, 35
  

Gladstone's Land

• Where: Lawnmarket
• When: Daily (April to 30th Oct only) 10.00 - 17.00 (Later July & Aug)
• Price: Adult £5, Concession £4, 1 Parent Family £10, Family £14NTS/NT/British Heritage Pass/Discovery Pass (NTS) & Edinburgh are all free.
• How to get there: Bus 1, 6, 34, 35
  

THE HIGH STREET

St. Giles Cathedral - We visited!

• Where: High Street
• When: Daily 09.00 - 17.00 Sun 13.00 - 17.00
• Price: Free but Donations are always welcomed
• How to get there: Bus 1,6,34,35
  

Mary Kings Close

• Where: High Street
• When: Daily 10.00 - 21.00 Sun ( APR-OCT )
• Prices: Adults £8.00 Seniors/Students £7.00 Child £6.00
• How to get there: Bus 1, 6, 34, 35
  
  Mary King's Close is a range of closes and spaces that lie hidden beneath Edinburgh's City Chambers. This is a historically accurate interpretation of life in the city from the 16th - 19th century.

Museum of Childhood

• Where: High Street
• When: Daily 10.00 - 17.00
• Price: Free
• How to get there: Bus 34, 35

Palace of Holyrood - We saw this!

• Where: Bottom of Royal Mile
• When: Daily 09.30 - 18.00 (summer) 09.30 - 16.30 (winter)
• Price: Adults 5.50gbp; Children 2.70gbp; Seniors 4.00gbp; families 13.50gbp
• How to get there: Bus 1, 6

Rising Spirits - Sarah's smile

Edinburgh's past comes alive in the subterranean vaults that lie beneath the well worn paths of the city's cobblestone streets. Orginally used as storerooms, workshops and drinking dens in the 19th century, they became inhabited by poor Highlanders and Irish refugees from the potato famine. They slowly deteriorated and were abandoned to poverty, filth and crime.

But there is a darker side to the past, something few people care to discuss -- the plague that struck the city in 1645. Legend has it that the disease ridden inhabitants of Mary King's Close (a lane on the northern side of the Royal Mile -- the site of the City Chambers -- you can still see its blocked-off northern end from Cockburn street) were walled up in their homes and left to die. When the lifeless bodies were cleared from the houses, they were so stiff that workmen had to hack off limbs to get them through the small doorways and narrow, twisting stairs.

From that day onward, the "Close" was said to be haunted by the spirits of the plague victims. One of the most famous is "Sarah", a little girl who died of the plague, but has been seen as an paranormal apparition carrying a doll, walking with a small dog named "Bailey".

EXPLORE MORE!

Edinburgh (remember its pronounced Edinburr!) just begs to be explored. From the haunted undergound vaults to HolyRood Palace and the wynds that riddle Old Town to its picturesque urban villages, it is filled with quirky, come-hither nooks that tempt you to just walk just a "wee bit" further -- to see green sunlit hills, a glimpse of the rust-red crags, a blue flash of the distant sea, or a paranormal apparition -- and ramble on through your wanderlust.

Edinburgh, the Athens of northern Europe, enjoys a spectacular setting where crags overhang a bustling city that stretches to the English Sea. But there is more to the city than just siteseeing the past -- there are cozy shops, 5 star restaurants and a bachanalia of pubs to enjoy.

During the Fringe, the performing artists light up the city providing a cornucopia for all of the senses to enjoy. Just don't run out-of-time or Scotch Whisky!