Final Day - Mary King's Close

Mary King's Close, which has remained unchanged for over 400 years is hidden beneath the Royal Mile lies Edinburgh’s deepest secret: a warren of hidden ‘closes’ where real people lived, worked and died -- some from the plague. For centuries they have lain forgotten and abandoned, but now come alive through this tour.

We experienced the sights, sounds and 'yes' smells of an amazing street that time forgot. Where everyday people went about their day to day lives and where we walked in their footsteps. We learned about the "Plague Doctors" and where the term "Quack" came from.

We saw how they lived and how they survived. Now we have a true appreciation of our wonderful way of life -- and will not take for granted the blessing we have been given.

Day 7 - Robertson Heritage Tour

We hired a private tour guide, Ian Stewart of Serenity Scotland Tours, to take us on a voyage to the past of the Robertson clan (Donnachaidh). The tour began with tradition of Scotland -- RAIN! Our very first real RAIN DAY!

We left at 8:30 AM and took the road from Edinburgh over the Firth of Forth through Perth to the Scottish Highlands. Ian told us of the history of Scotland, from the Romans, to the Picts, to James I -- son of Mary Queen of Scots, who united Scotland and England. He spoke of the divisiness of religion -- protestants and catholics -- which is still present in their culture.

A wee bit on the Robertsons --

"The Robertsons are claimed to be descendents from the Celtic Earls of Athol. The Clan takes its Gaelic name from Donnachadh Reamhar (Stout Duncan) the staunch friend of Bruce, who led the clan at Bannockburn. It was from Robert Raich (Grizzled Robert) that the clan took the name of Robertson. This Robert was the chief who captured the murderers of James I and delivered them to the government, and for his action he received, in 1451, a crown charter erecting his lands into the barony of Struan. About a centaury later the Earl of Athol seized about half of the Struan lads under a wanset and the Robertsons never recovered them.

The Robertsons were loyal adherents of the Stuarts and accompanied Montrose in all his campaign, and after the restoration Charles II settled a pension robertson of Struan. Alexander, the celebrated poet, chief of Struan, born around 1670, was studying for the church when he succeeded to the chiefship, but he left the cloisters,and joined Dundee in 1688. He was attained but received a remission an 1703. He was 'out' again in 1715, and was captured at Sherrifsmuir, but escaped to France. He was pardoned in 1731, but joined Prince Charles in 1745 with the clan; he was then too old to fight and returned home in Sir John Copes carriage. He in died in 1749.

The Robertsons of Lude are the oldest branch of the clan. Other families are the Robertsons of Inches, of Kindeace, of Auchleeks and of Kinlochmoidart among others. "

We first arrived in Bruar and visited the Robertson Museum, where they told the stories of how the Robertson clan "came down from the Highlands" to support Robert the Bruce.

We visited Struan --Struan is the anglicized form of the Scottish Gaelic word sruthan, meaning a small stream, or the flow at the point where a spring appears.

There are two rural communities in Scotland which are given the name Struan. One is in Perthshire, and the other in Skye. Strowan, also in Perthshire, west of Crieff, has the same origin.

Struan is also a traditional Scottish boys name, commonly given to the chief of the Robertson Clan or Duncan Clan. This comes from the related word sruthan (pl. of sruth 'stream') and can be translated as 'place of streams'.

Struan is the original home of the Robertson castle (no longer present) and a church where many Robertsons were buried -- including several that were Jacobites (Followers of James II, the Catholic king) and had graves marked only with initials.

We then trekked to find the "gathering site" and the "burial site" of the Robertson clan. We located both. The burial site is situated on Loch DunAlister and commands a beatiful view. We continued our journey to Ben Lawers, where we had lunch overlooking Loch Tay -- a beautiful 16 mile lake -- and the sun came out -- so we ate outside. Brilliant!

On the road back, Ian took us by JK Rowling's summer estate and then back to Edinburgh.

A truly "historic day".

Day 6 - A Day at the Castle

We visited Edinburgh Castle today. No rain! Again! We took the audio tour and went on a 1,000 year tour of Scotland's history. From William the Conqueror in 1066 up til the Scottish troops in Basra, Iraq, history has proven that the Scots will "come down from the Highlands" to take up the charge.

We saw the Scottish War Museum, St Margartet's Chapel -- the oldest standing building in Scotland -- and the Scottish Honours -- the Crown jewels -- the crown, the sceptre and the sword.

Afterwards we had lunch at the Witchery -- a delightful restaurant near the castle.

Following lunch, we toured Gladstone's land -- an orginal tenement from the 15th century that had been preserved to show how the Scot's lived. Surprisingly, the flat was pretty large and over the years from 1550 to 1750 - it had been expanded twice with extensions that provided a premium view of the Royal Mile.

We then meandered down the Royal Mile taking in the sights and scenery, until we arrived at the the Fringe Festival's performance center - the Underbelly -- a very large purple upside down cow. We bought tickets for a comedic performance of Tom Allan -- a Londoner who provided us a "voyage with his mother" -- quite entertaining.

Afterwards, we had dinner at Assembly and then headed home.

Day 5 - The Birthplace of Golf

We took a bus tour from Edinburgh, over the "Two Bridges" across the Firth of Forth, through many small seaside towns on Fife, including Celardyke. The weather was delightful, sunny, breezy and 65 degrees.

Fife (Gaelic: Fìobha) is a council area of Scotland, situated between the Firth of Tay and the Firth of Forth, with inland boundaries to Perth and Kinross and Clackmannanshire. It was originally one of the Pictish kingdoms, known as Fib, and is still commonly known as the Kingdom of Fife within Scotland.

Onward to St Andrews. St Andrews (Scottish Gaelic: Cill Rìmhinn) is a town and former royal burgh on the east coast of Fife, Scotland. It is named after Saint Andrew the Apostle. It has a population of about 18,000, and stands on the North Sea coast between Edinburgh and Dundee. It is home to Scotland's oldest university, the University of St Andrews.

The town of St Andrews is known worldwide as the "home of golf". This is in part because the Royal and Ancient Golf Club, founded in 1754, exercises legislative authority over the game worldwide (except in the United States and Mexico), and also because the famous links (acquired by the town in 1894) is the most frequent venue for The Open Championship, the oldest of golf's four major championships. Visitors travel to St Andrews in great numbers for several courses ranked amongst the finest in the world, as well as for the sandy beaches.

An ancient saying from a wise man

I don't know if its the "Firth of Fourth" or the "Third of Fifth", but I would rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy.

- August 15, 2008 Foolzio

Day 4 Evening - Edinburgh Military Tatoo

You would have thought it was a concert for the Rolling Stones or The Beatles. Over 10,000 people jammed The Royal Mile, only to be "queued" by the Scottish police, in front of the Festival Hub, like a huge python, writhing up to the front of Edinburgh Castle -- and it was 10:00 PM!

It was well worth the wait. Both the performers and the castle were dressed in full regalia. The Scottish Pipes, The Scottish Marine Band, The King of Norway Guard, The Southeast Missouri State University (USA) Marching Band, Dress Field dancers from New Zealand, Honor Guard from India and Singapore -- all presented a convivial, fantastic performance that brought everyone to its feet for many songs including "Auld Ang Syne".

After 2 hours of music, dancing and high-quality performances, the sky and castle lit up with fireworks, accompanied by music. The most spectacular fireworks, in my humble opinion, was a cascading waterfall of fireworks that flowed over the castle gun turrets to the foot of the castle wall.

Eyeweenie did an excellent job!

Day 4 Afternoon - Visit to Roslin (Rosslyn) Chapel

We took bus 15 from Princes Street to Rosslyn Chapel. Here is a bit o' history.

Rosslyn Chapel, properly named the Collegiate Church of St Matthew, was founded on a small hill above Roslin Glen as a Roman Catholic collegiate church (with between 4 and 6 ordained canons and two boy choristers) in the mid-15th century. Rosslyn Chapel and the nearby Rosslyn Castle are located at the village of Roslin, Midlothian, Scotland.

The chapel was founded by William Sinclair, 1st Earl of Caithness (also spelled "Sainteclaire/Saintclair/Sinclair/St. Clair") of the Sinclair family, a noble family descended from Norman knights, using the standard designs the medieval architects made available to him. Rosslyn Chapel is the third Sinclair place of worship at Roslin - the first being in Rosslyn Castle and the second (whose crumbling buttresses can still be seen today) in what is now Roslin Cemetery.

The purpose of the college was to celebrate the Divine Office throughout the day and night and also to celebrate Holy Mass for all the faithful departed, including the deceased members of the Sinclair family. During this period the rich heritage of plainsong (a single melodic line) or polyphony (vocal harmony) would be used to enrich the singing of the liturgy. An endowment was made that would pay for the upkeep of the priests and choristers in perpetuity and they also had parochial responsibilities.

After the Scottish Reformation (1560) Roman Catholic worship in the Chapel was brought to an end, although the Sinclair family continued to be Roman Catholics until the early 18th century. From that time the Chapel was closed to public worship until 1861 when it was opened again as a place of worship according to the rites of the Scottish Episcopal Church.

Crypt

The Chapel has also acted as a burial place for several generations of the Sinclairs — a crypt was once reachable from a descending stair at the rear of the chapel. This crypt has for many years been sealed shut, which may explain the recurrent legends that it is merely a front to a more extensive subterranean vault containing (variously) the mummified head of Jesus Christ,[7] the Holy Grail,[8] the treasure of the Templars,[9] or the original crown jewels of Scotland.[10] In 1837 when the 2nd Earl of Rosslyn died, his wish was to be buried in the original vault, exhaustive searches over the period of a week were made, but no entrance to the original vault was found and he was buried beside his wife in the Lady Chapel.[11]

Alternative histories

Alternative histories involving Rosslyn Chapel and the Sinclairs have recently been published by Andrew Sinclair and Timothy Wallace-Murphy arguing links with the Knights Templar and the supposed descendants of Jesus Christ. The books in particular by Timothy Wallace-Murphy Rex Deus: The True Mystery of Rennes-le-Château And The Dynasty of Jesus (2000) and Custodians Of Truth: The Continuance Of Rex Deus (2005) have focused on the hypothetical Jesus bloodline with the Sinclairs and Rosslyn Chapel. On the ABC documentary Jesus, Mary and Da Vinci aired on 3 November 2003 Niven Sinclair hinted that the descendants of Jesus Christ existed within the Sinclair families. These alternative histories are relatively modern - not dating back before the early 1990s. The precursor to these Rosslyn theories is the 1982 book The Holy Blood and the Holy Grail by Michael Baigent, Richard Leigh and Henry Lincoln that introduced the theory of the Jesus Christ bloodline in relation to the Priory of Sion - the main protagonist of which was Pierre Plantard, who for a time adopted the name Pierre Plantard de Saint-Clair.

Other Myths

According to the guide, these are the things that could be buried below the Chapel's floor.

• The Head of Jesus Christ
• A Piece of Jesus Crucifix
• The Holy Grail
• 12 Knights of Templar
• The remains of Mary Magdalene
• Elvis

You Decide.

Day 4 Morning - Royal Botanic Garden

This morning. we took a stroll down the hill toward StockBridge, across the "stock bridge" to the northern gate of the Royal Botanic Garden -- seventy (70) acres of gardens and hot houses. Once inside we enjoyed a leisurely walk amidst the flora and the fauna, 30 ft hedges, a rock garden, a peat garden and an abundance of flowers. Check out the photos.

Back to 19B, a simple lunch and we are off the Roslyn Chapel -- final scene of the DaVinci Code.

Tonight, the Scottish Military Tatoo.

Tomorrow St Andrews.

Onward the journey continues.....

Day 3 - A Palatial Day

Once again, Edinburgh fooled us -- GREAT WEATHER!

We continued the Open Bus tour (from the prior day) through the rest of the city, by Princes Gardens (which we visited later in the day by walking), and St. Cuthbert's, round the base of the Edinburgh Castle back down the Royal Mile to HolyRood Palace.

We toured HolyRood seeing the "Queen's home" in Scotland, and as castles go, it was interesting, but the best part was the story of Mary, Queen of Scots, and her lifelong trials and tribulations.

As the story goes, "Under the ordinary laws of succession, Mary was next in line to the English throne after her cousin, Queen Elizabeth I, who was childless. In the eyes of many Catholics, Elizabeth was illegitimate, thus making Mary the true heir as Mary II of England. However the Third Succession Act of 1543 provided that Elizabeth would succeed Mary I of England on the throne. Through a series of unfortunate events, Mary, pregnant with child, was being served by David Rizzio, her secretary, at HolyRood, when her husband, Lord Darnley, accused Rizzio of a secret conspiracy. Rizzio was murdered in Mary's chambers at HolyRood by 56 stab wounds and left to die. Subsequently, Mary moved to England where she was imprisoned by her cousin Queen Elizabeth I for 19 years and then tried for treason and put to death at the age of 45." Tough times in the life of a "would be" monarch.

After Holyrood, we visited Scotland's Dynamic Earth exhibit, which covers the evolution of the Earth up to today and where we are headed. They use a clever interactive audience participation activity at the end of the show to allow "us" to determine the ultimate future of the Earth.

We then stopped in to Jenny Ha's and had "pub fare" -- fish & chips, Guiness and tales from the past and future of the monarchy.

We then strolled back up the Mile, visiting the Museum of Edinburgh and Stac Polly -- a restaurant owned by Roger Coulthard, our landlord.

Onward, we pushed our way up the hill, then down the hill and then up 100 stairs to visit Mary Kings Close -- which was "sold out" for the day. We then headed back to New Town, strolling through Princes Garden, seeing an array of flowers, a photo exhibit on "Black Rain".

Back to 19B, we then chatted amongst ourselves and decided "pizza" was in order, so back to Cento Tre -- again excellent Italian fare.

Onward, the journey continues.....

Day 2 - The Royal "10" Miler

Our first full day in Edinburgh was a complete "walk-about" (see "Royal 10 Mile" slide show above) -- We started from 19 Royal Circus and found our way to Princes Street up the Mound -- to the Royal Mile. Once on the Mile, we meandered through the centuries old streets up to "Camera Obscura", which gave us a unique insight into optical illusions and a panoramic "vue" of Edinburgh, through a camera that was built in 1850.

After the Obscura, we briefly visited the Scottish Distilleries tour, to only decide it was too early for a "wee bit", so we headed to lunch at a Cathedral that had been made over into a Festival Cafe. We supped on local Scottish fare - Tweed Kettle, Guinness (an Irish Obsession) and beautiful sunshine. We then decided to go see Tara's dorm at the University, so we hailed a taxi and off we went.

At Pollock Hall at the University of Edinburgh, we met up with Tara and her friends from around the globe (Australia, India, Gettysburg, PA and Ireland). She gave us a tour of the campus, including the "BAR" -- which was very different from what I remembered in College -- of course that was in the "Dark Ages".

After we left Tara, we went back to the "Mile" and flowed through the festival crowds, seeing an array of performers tempting us to come "see" their acts. We visited Giles Cathedral, built over 800 years ago, that was still very much operational.

We then boarded a "open air" double decker bus to see Old Town and New Town. We saw the several restaurants that claimed to be the "place JK Rowling started her writings", the place where Sean Connery worked as a "live model" for aspiring painters then down to HolyRood Palace (the Queen's residence when she visits Scotland), the "Mother Earth" exhibition and finally through the financial district -- Royal Bank of Scoland, Barclays, etc. At 5:00 PM we decided to "take a break" and go back to No 19.

At 9:00 PM we headed out for a "wee bit" of Thailand at the Ruan Siam -- a quaint Thai bistro "round the corner" near No. 19. Food was good. Service was slow.

Onward, the journey continues....

Day 1 Entre: Cento Tre -- absolutely fantastic

Over the pond and through the woods, through Brussels and airport delays, we arrived in Edinburgh under azure blue skies and brilliant sunshine with delightfully warm weather.

Tired, we were gleefully greeted by Roger and Lucinda Coulthard, the owners of 19B Royal Circus -- a wonderful 3 bedroom apartment, near everything and newly re-decorated, including a cat walking across the skylight in the kitchen, overlooking a quaint Scottish garden.

We bedded down for a few hours respite to regain our energy so we could later search for sustenance.

At 7:00 PM Edinburgh time, we strolled through New Town and found an elegant, new age Italian restaurant -- Cento Tre -- located at 103 George Street, that features orginal fresh Italian food combined with high-touch, courteous Scottish service.

When we stopped to check out the fare on the menu, a recent gatronome imbiber told us, " You would be pleased to try it out, the food is good and service exceptional." A few moments later, he retorted, "I should know, I am the owner."

We enjoyed a mixture of bruschetta, prosciutto, melon, cozze, a parma pizza with arugula, accompanied by a nice Barbera d'Asti wine from Lombardia. Topped off by wonderful cappucino, gelato and other fine desserts we began the end to a "well travelled" first day in Scotland. What a delight.

Onward, the journey continues....

See you tomorrow at the festival!

Thin's to do in Edinburgh

A good friend, Mark, the "Man o'Steel", recommended the following things to see while we are in Scotland. Please view these recommendations with careful deference. Remember Mark is a Brit!

THE ROYAL MILE

Edinburgh Castle

• Where: Top of Royal Mile
• When: Daily 09.30 - 18.00 ( summer)
• Price: Adults 8.50gbp; Children ( 5 - 15 ) 2gbp; Seniors 6.5gbp.
• How to get there: Bus 1, 6, 34, 35
  

Camera Obscura/Outlook Tower - We saw this!

• Where: Castlehill
• When: Daily 09.30 - 18.00 (later in summer)
• Price: Adult £6.45 Student/Senior £5.15 Child £4.15
• How to get there: Bus 1, 6, 34, 35
  

Scotch Whisky Heritage Centre - We stopped in!

• Where: Castlehill
• When: Daily 09.30 - 18.00 (later in summer)
• Price: Adults 4.95gbp Children 2.50gbp Seniors 3.50gbp families 12.00gbp
• How to get there: Bus 1, 6, 34, 35
  

The Hub Edinburgh's Festival Centre - We walked by!

• Where: Castlehill
• When: Daily 08.00 - 11.00 (later during festivals)
• Price: Prices for events vary.
• How to get there: Bus 1, 6, 34, 35
  

Gladstone's Land

• Where: Lawnmarket
• When: Daily (April to 30th Oct only) 10.00 - 17.00 (Later July & Aug)
• Price: Adult £5, Concession £4, 1 Parent Family £10, Family £14NTS/NT/British Heritage Pass/Discovery Pass (NTS) & Edinburgh are all free.
• How to get there: Bus 1, 6, 34, 35
  

THE HIGH STREET

St. Giles Cathedral - We visited!

• Where: High Street
• When: Daily 09.00 - 17.00 Sun 13.00 - 17.00
• Price: Free but Donations are always welcomed
• How to get there: Bus 1,6,34,35
  

Mary Kings Close

• Where: High Street
• When: Daily 10.00 - 21.00 Sun ( APR-OCT )
• Prices: Adults £8.00 Seniors/Students £7.00 Child £6.00
• How to get there: Bus 1, 6, 34, 35
  
  Mary King's Close is a range of closes and spaces that lie hidden beneath Edinburgh's City Chambers. This is a historically accurate interpretation of life in the city from the 16th - 19th century.

Museum of Childhood

• Where: High Street
• When: Daily 10.00 - 17.00
• Price: Free
• How to get there: Bus 34, 35

Palace of Holyrood - We saw this!

• Where: Bottom of Royal Mile
• When: Daily 09.30 - 18.00 (summer) 09.30 - 16.30 (winter)
• Price: Adults 5.50gbp; Children 2.70gbp; Seniors 4.00gbp; families 13.50gbp
• How to get there: Bus 1, 6

Rising Spirits - Sarah's smile

Edinburgh's past comes alive in the subterranean vaults that lie beneath the well worn paths of the city's cobblestone streets. Orginally used as storerooms, workshops and drinking dens in the 19th century, they became inhabited by poor Highlanders and Irish refugees from the potato famine. They slowly deteriorated and were abandoned to poverty, filth and crime.

But there is a darker side to the past, something few people care to discuss -- the plague that struck the city in 1645. Legend has it that the disease ridden inhabitants of Mary King's Close (a lane on the northern side of the Royal Mile -- the site of the City Chambers -- you can still see its blocked-off northern end from Cockburn street) were walled up in their homes and left to die. When the lifeless bodies were cleared from the houses, they were so stiff that workmen had to hack off limbs to get them through the small doorways and narrow, twisting stairs.

From that day onward, the "Close" was said to be haunted by the spirits of the plague victims. One of the most famous is "Sarah", a little girl who died of the plague, but has been seen as an paranormal apparition carrying a doll, walking with a small dog named "Bailey".

EXPLORE MORE!

Edinburgh (remember its pronounced Edinburr!) just begs to be explored. From the haunted undergound vaults to HolyRood Palace and the wynds that riddle Old Town to its picturesque urban villages, it is filled with quirky, come-hither nooks that tempt you to just walk just a "wee bit" further -- to see green sunlit hills, a glimpse of the rust-red crags, a blue flash of the distant sea, or a paranormal apparition -- and ramble on through your wanderlust.

Edinburgh, the Athens of northern Europe, enjoys a spectacular setting where crags overhang a bustling city that stretches to the English Sea. But there is more to the city than just siteseeing the past -- there are cozy shops, 5 star restaurants and a bachanalia of pubs to enjoy.

During the Fringe, the performing artists light up the city providing a cornucopia for all of the senses to enjoy. Just don't run out-of-time or Scotch Whisky!

So now you know -- Dun Eiden = Edin-burr

Edinburgh owes its existence to the Castle Rock, the glacier-worn stump of a long-extinct volcano that provided a near perfect defensive position guarding the coastal route from northeast England into central Scotland. (picture above is Arthur's Seat in Edinburgh, taken by Zunie.)

Back in the 7th century, the Castle Rock was called Dun Eiden (meaning "Fort on the Hill Slope"). When it was captured by invaders from the kingdom of Northumbria in northeast England in 638 AD, they took the existing Gaelic name 'Eiden' and tacked it onto their Old English word for fort, 'burh' to create the name Edinburgh. So know you know why its pronounced - Edin-burr.

Connecting with Nessie

Well, we just connected with Nessie, in Edinburgh via Skype. And the word is out...Scotch Whiskys are IN.

Sunrise at Arthur's Seat and a visit to HolyRood Palace is in order.

Good day to all!

"Foolzio" embarks on his visit to the Fringe Festival in Edinburgh, Scotland in the UK from August 12, 2008 to August 20, 2008.

Sampling the various fares from performing arts from around the globe, Foolzio will provide a unique "vue" of the festival with help from his entourage - Balthazar, Zunie, Queenie, EyeWeenie and BillyBob.

Fresh photos, tantalizing videos, delicious prose -- the "vue" will be truly spectlacular!

Long Live Foolzio!