Wednesday, August 20, 2008

Final Day - Mary King's Close

Mary King's Close, which has remained unchanged for over 400 years is hidden beneath the Royal Mile lies Edinburgh’s deepest secret: a warren of hidden ‘closes’ where real people lived, worked and died -- some from the plague. For centuries they have lain forgotten and abandoned, but now come alive through this tour.

We experienced the sights, sounds and 'yes' smells of an amazing street that time forgot. Where everyday people went about their day to day lives and where we walked in their footsteps. We learned about the "Plague Doctors" and where the term "Quack" came from.

We saw how they lived and how they survived. Now we have a true appreciation of our wonderful way of life -- and will not take for granted the blessing we have been given.

Day 7 - Robertson Heritage Tour

We hired a private tour guide, Ian Stewart of Serenity Scotland Tours, to take us on a voyage to the past of the Robertson clan (Donnachaidh). The tour began with tradition of Scotland -- RAIN! Our very first real RAIN DAY!

We left at 8:30 AM and took the road from Edinburgh over the Firth of Forth through Perth to the Scottish Highlands. Ian told us of the history of Scotland, from the Romans, to the Picts, to James I -- son of Mary Queen of Scots, who united Scotland and England. He spoke of the divisiness of religion -- protestants and catholics -- which is still present in their culture.

A wee bit on the Robertsons --

"The Robertsons are claimed to be descendents from the Celtic Earls of Athol. The Clan takes its Gaelic name from Donnachadh Reamhar (Stout Duncan) the staunch friend of Bruce, who led the clan at Bannockburn. It was from Robert Raich (Grizzled Robert) that the clan took the name of Robertson. This Robert was the chief who captured the murderers of James I and delivered them to the government, and for his action he received, in 1451, a crown charter erecting his lands into the barony of Struan. About a centaury later the Earl of Athol seized about half of the Struan lads under a wanset and the Robertsons never recovered them.

The Robertsons were loyal adherents of the Stuarts and accompanied Montrose in all his campaign, and after the restoration Charles II settled a pension robertson of Struan. Alexander, the celebrated poet, chief of Struan, born around 1670, was studying for the church when he succeeded to the chiefship, but he left the cloisters,and joined Dundee in 1688. He was attained but received a remission an 1703. He was 'out' again in 1715, and was captured at Sherrifsmuir, but escaped to France. He was pardoned in 1731, but joined Prince Charles in 1745 with the clan; he was then too old to fight and returned home in Sir John Copes carriage. He in died in 1749.

The Robertsons of Lude are the oldest branch of the clan. Other families are the Robertsons of Inches, of Kindeace, of Auchleeks and of Kinlochmoidart among others. "

We first arrived in Bruar and visited the Robertson Museum, where they told the stories of how the Robertson clan "came down from the Highlands" to support Robert the Bruce.

We visited Struan --Struan is the anglicized form of the Scottish Gaelic word sruthan, meaning a small stream, or the flow at the point where a spring appears.

There are two rural communities in Scotland which are given the name Struan. One is in Perthshire, and the other in Skye. Strowan, also in Perthshire, west of Crieff, has the same origin.

Struan is also a traditional Scottish boys name, commonly given to the chief of the Robertson Clan or Duncan Clan. This comes from the related word sruthan (pl. of sruth 'stream') and can be translated as 'place of streams'.

Struan is the original home of the Robertson castle (no longer present) and a church where many Robertsons were buried -- including several that were Jacobites (Followers of James II, the Catholic king) and had graves marked only with initials.

We then trekked to find the "gathering site" and the "burial site" of the Robertson clan. We located both. The burial site is situated on Loch DunAlister and commands a beatiful view. We continued our journey to Ben Lawers, where we had lunch overlooking Loch Tay -- a beautiful 16 mile lake -- and the sun came out -- so we ate outside. Brilliant!

On the road back, Ian took us by JK Rowling's summer estate and then back to Edinburgh.

A truly "historic day".

Day 6 - A Day at the Castle

We visited Edinburgh Castle today. No rain! Again! We took the audio tour and went on a 1,000 year tour of Scotland's history. From William the Conqueror in 1066 up til the Scottish troops in Basra, Iraq, history has proven that the Scots will "come down from the Highlands" to take up the charge.

We saw the Scottish War Museum, St Margartet's Chapel -- the oldest standing building in Scotland -- and the Scottish Honours -- the Crown jewels -- the crown, the sceptre and the sword.

Afterwards we had lunch at the Witchery -- a delightful restaurant near the castle.

Following lunch, we toured Gladstone's land -- an orginal tenement from the 15th century that had been preserved to show how the Scot's lived. Surprisingly, the flat was pretty large and over the years from 1550 to 1750 - it had been expanded twice with extensions that provided a premium view of the Royal Mile.

We then meandered down the Royal Mile taking in the sights and scenery, until we arrived at the the Fringe Festival's performance center - the Underbelly -- a very large purple upside down cow. We bought tickets for a comedic performance of Tom Allan -- a Londoner who provided us a "voyage with his mother" -- quite entertaining.

Afterwards, we had dinner at Assembly and then headed home.